Sector A, on the far left, has easy and short routes. Sector D is very popular with groups and can unfortunately get very crowded in good weather. The yellow central wall is without doubt the jewel of Portafortuna – it’s no coincidence that the crag’s most demanding and fascinating routes are found here.
The Croatia climbing guide describes the approach in detail. The crag is easy to find, as the waymarking is sufficient.
PORTAFORTUNA FACTS
ORIENTATION: North-east
MAXIMUM HEIGHT: 40 m
ROCK: Limestone
TYPE: Slabs, steep walls
IDEAL ROPE: 60-70 m
EQUIPMENT: Stainless steel bolts, hangers and belay anchors. ACCESS: 20 minutes on foot
SEASON: March -> November
CHILDREN: Not suitable for small children!
Portafortuna
Popular crags of grey and yellow, sharp, water-eroded limestone offering many easy and intermediate routes – and still plenty of potential for new, harder lines. Most routes are long, even over 30 metres, except in sector A, where they are shorter and more intense but still beautiful. The climbing style ranges from flat slabs to steep rock with some overhanging sections that demand good technique, finger strength and stamina on harder lines. Routes are very well equipped, mostly with stainless steel expansion bolts, hangers and pegs. On the easier routes the bolts are usually placed close together so that beginners can climb safely too. However, everyone must know how to prepare the lower-off at the top of a route (threading) when there is only a ring and no carabiners! We recommend always wearing a helmet! Take special care when you see sheep above the rock – they can dislodge stones. This crag is not suitable for small children!
CLIMBING SEASON: From March to November. The crag is in the shade from early afternoon (sectors B & C first) and isn’t too hot even in midsummer. In winter it can quickly get too cold.
Access
Follow the Baška – Punat road (or come from the opposite direction) and park below the Treskavac pass (10 km from Baška) in the car park opposite the old blue building, the former Portafortuna disco. From here you can already see the crag on the slope to your south-west. Walk 100 m along the road towards Punat, over the bridge, to the well-kept water source (tap) on the left. Start the climb directly above the tap and follow the path, which leads you to the sheep gate after 20 m. Go through it, continue to the right and follow the path towards the cliffs, through another sheep gate, until you reach the scree. Continue left through the forest on the most obvious path until it turns straight uphill and leads you below sector C (20 minutes).
Because of the sheep, please close all gates behind you and keep your dogs on a lead!
